Esen Boyacigiller

Prior to the opening of the centrally-located Kanyon Konyali, Istanbul denizens would think nothing of trekking out to Topkapi Palace if it meant indulging in a feast fit for sultans at Konyali. Lucky for us, Konyali Grubu has opened 1897 (the year Konyali first opened for service) in Akaretler, another easily accessible area of Istanbul for tourists and residents alike, and smack in the centre of the new shopping area.1897 is chic and stylish- with dark browns dominating the colour scheme, unique light fixtures hanging from the ceiling and adorning the walls, special made sculptures created by famed Istanbul artists including Malik Bulut and Lerzan Özer, uniforms designed by fashion designer Bahar Korçan, a full bar with a marble-countertop, vibrant orchids placed throughout- every detail has been meticulously constructed.
The menu, which was always perfection, has been taken up a notch. 1897 features Konyali favourites but now shines with the addition of game meats. The highlights of the menu are definitely the “Meyve Soslu Ördek Palazi” (slow-cooked duck with fruits and herbs served with spiced couscous), “Balli Mahmudiye” (lemon-marinated chicken pieces cooked in honey apricot and almond sauce), “Terkib-i Çeşidiye” (fresh lamb meat cooked with dried and fresh fruits). The dishes are so delicately prepared your mouth is literally overwhelmed with flavour, slowly noting first the tenderness of the meat and then each spice that was used. Head Chef Aydin Demir explained to me that heavy tomato sauces, used in modern Turkish cuisine, were never a part of Ottoman cuisine, thus the absence of overpowering and unnecessary sauces.
1897 also has a full-service bar, the highlight being the “Ottoman-flavour inspired” champagne cocktails. Rather than the traditional large dining room, 1897 is split into a handful of smaller rooms, making it much more intimate. The bar is in one such room; I was told that diners enjoy lounging at the bar in Konyali ventures so much, that often they prefer to dine at the bar! (even after being told their table is ready). This little anecdote speaks to the relaxing environment at each Konyali restaurant- the experience is pure “keyf”.
1897 will also benefit from its outdoor garden during the spring/summer months. The garden, which seats around 150 and overlooks the W Hotel, will definitely be the “in demand” area for reservations.
1897 is opening in tandem with Café Piruhi, a little café that features a wide-variety of breakfast foods for early morning businessmen, and can hold around 44 diners. Though the Café has yet to open, TOiST is looking forward to seeing what Konyali Grubu has come up with…
Main courses: 25-35 YTL
Desserts: 12-15 YTL
Wine: 15-17 YTL (per glass)
Open everyday, from 11:30 a.m. to 1:00 a.m.