Gay & Lesbian
Looking for somewhere to stay and wary of the wrong reception? Rene Ames checks out Istanbul's gay-friendly accommodation.
Recently the much-heralded opening of a 70-room, four-starred Planet Victoria in Antalya's Kemer district drew some enthusiastic reporting because of its earth-shattering new concept (for Turkey, that is) – it was 100% gay & lesbian-intended and operated. Then came the abrupt letdown when, just three months later, the owners decided that unfortunately there was insufficient customer interest. Now, they've completely given up on their innovative claim to be filling a niche market and have instead renamed and repackaged their business.
This set us thinking. Could it be that it failed because it opened in a part of Turkey that has not yet established itself as having a claim on a good portion of the country's gay visitors? (Hello, wasn't there a project study in the first place?) How viable would it be, on the other hand, if such a unique idea was tried in Istanbul, the gateway to the country and the city on which the majority of gay travelers converge, drawn by the numerous venues and facilities available and duly noted in guidebooks, on the net and, of course, in our magazine? We decided to delve into the subject of the city's gay accommodation in particular and of gay travel in general, a quest which led us straight to the website of Pride Travel Agency, www.istanbulgay.com/hotels.htm. This lists various lodgings, from hotels to private apartments, all of them purportedly ‘gay-friendly’, a term which doesn’t really mean much more than that the people working in them are not morally judgmental. In other words, if you swish your way up to check in, or hold hands with your partner as you arrive in your leather chaps, they are not expected to raise their eyebrows and frown but should continue to greet you with a warmly-felt merhaba! hos geldiniz!
The comforting intro to their
webpage reads:
Why choose hotels recommended by us?
After interviewing the management of our member hotels, we were persuaded that they understand the expectations of gay people. We work with hotels only after we are sure that they are indeed gay friendly. Our first target is to help gay people find what they are looking for. Our motto is "Business comes next". Also, our member hotels provide special discounts or promotions to our gay clients such as free airport transfers.
This vetting process has resulted in a rather short list considering the myriad hotels in this tourism-oriented city of ours, and either reflects a vigorous and effective selection on the part of the agency, or the indifferent attitude of other hoteliers towards so-called ‘pink money’. None of the recommended establishments - most of which are not really that different from any other hotels of whatever shape, size or claim to luxury - is exclusively focused on the gay market. ‘Gay-friendly’ is as far as they go - with a big dose of liberal attitude to go with the moniker. Mind you, it's probably a sound business decision considering that this city is not awash with rainbow-bannered visitors at any time. I chose to check out two from the list, which caught my eye as offering unusual accommodation options.
When I went looking for Eklektik Guest House in the Galata neighborhood, a number of people I asked for directions were completely stumped and had never even heard of it. No wonder. Tucked away in a cul-de-sac, the hotel is an anonymous, medium-sized Ottoman house without a sign. Inadvertently or not, it proclaims its sexual preference with loud pink paint, which makes it stand out from the otherwise drab neighbourhood like a sore thumb. Obviously people in the area are not accustomed to monitor its comings and goings or they wouldn’t be so unaware of it - this is a definite plus for the traveler who values discretion.
From the outside it’s hard to imagine the comfort that awaits its guests but as soon as you step inside, the immediate feeling is of visiting a friend or relative’s abode which is furnished in shabby-chic, easy-to-feel-at-home-in style.
Here one can come and go as one pleases and - most importantly to gay visitors - one can bring a guest to the room without having to explain anything or pay extra for them - each room's rate is based on double occupancy, after all. However, as far as guests of guests go, Mr. Jeffrey C. Tucker, the proudly gay owner, maintains the right to bar anyone he deems to be an obvious security risk, which is perfectly fair when he’s running a luxury bed-and-breakfast set-up. Mr. Tucker, whose name, appearance and English accent belie his Turkish upbringing and nationality (his dad's English), is knowledgeable about Beyoğlu’s various gay venues and is happy to offer suggestions to anyone seeking advice for a memorable night out.
Eklektik advertises itself as ‘the first and only gay accommodation in Istanbul’. But don't get carried away by this grand proclamation - they are open to non-gay customers as well.
Eklektik Guest House
Sahkulu Mahallesi,
Serdarı Ekrem Caddesi, Kadribey Cıkmazı No 4, Beyoğlu
(0212) 243 7446
Fax: (0212) 243 7445
www.eklektikgalata.com
Regular rates: $90 to 110 per night depending on room size plus weekend supplement of $10 per night. Breakfast and taxes included.
For those who plan an İstanbul sojourn that combines the historical with the present-day and want to have quick access to the fabled, not-to-be-missed tourist sites as well as the much-vaunted ‹stanbul nightlife, setting up a base or temporary home in what is considered to be the ‘heart’ of the city is the only way to go. Beyoglu is the place to be it. Not only is it the emotional centre of İstanbul whence a network of transport to all the city's self-contained satellite neighborhoods and mahalles emanates, but it is also the entertainment belly of the town as well. İstanbullus flock here to see, be seen and enjoy this motley area of hotels, shops, restaurants, bars, clubs, museums, galleries. It's here in Taksim Square, with its Ataturk monument, that citizens from time to time pay homage to the founder of the modern Turkish Republic. Often enough, it's also here that they come to shout about what is wrong with the nation, their passionate demonstrations rising to the level of street theater. At such times the tourist does not need a ticket to witness the unfolding history of Turkey. For gay tourists any itinerary covering the bars and clubs of whatever fleeting inclination would have to kick off in Beyoğlu’s narrow streets and interconnected passageways. Here, too, you can stumble upon a couple of meat-racks offering good-looking Turkish rent boys, should you be so inclined.
Within shouting distance of Taksim is the expat enclave of Cihangir where, just a few tucks and turns from the landmark Marmara Hotel, stands Orange House. Despite its name, it is neither orange nor free-standing. When Mustafa Korkmaz pointed out his unassuming building, I was not really prepared for what I saw. My thoughts raced in immediate disbelief to: ‘This is it?’ But then I saw how efficiently and tastefully it had been set up as a furnished flat. A one-bedroom affair on a half-basement floor, it boasts a double bed in the bedroom and a living room that can comfortably accommodate a couple of extra guests. Although it’s part subterranean, it’s not dark and gloomy since it receives a fair amount of morning sunlight and has been decorated in cheerful colours. Additionally, the separate kitchen and toilet/bathroom have been made spacious.
A few words about Orange House’s proprietor Mustafa Korkmaz. He was Turkey's gay website pioneer, having established and maintained nine gay-oriented websites, including the pivotal www.istanbulgay.com and www.turkey-gay-travel.com . With ?, he was a founding partner of the aforementioned Pride Travel Agency. On the side he has also put up a site for straights, which, like his flat-leasing business, makes him an equal-opportunity entrepreneur.
Orange House
Purtelafl Sokak, Gülen Apartman No 40/2, Cihangir, Beyoğlu
(0539) 989 6792
Online reservation form from www.travelagencyturkey.com
$30 to 35 single per night. $35 to 40 double per night. Long term rental: $450-650 per month. All rates dependent on length of stay.
Beds and the city
Writer: Rene Ames
Looking for somewhere to stay and wary of the wrong reception? Rene Ames checks out Istanbul's gay-friendly accommodation.
Recently the much-heralded opening of a 70-room, four-starred Planet Victoria in Antalya's Kemer district drew some enthusiastic reporting because of its earth-shattering new concept (for Turkey, that is) – it was 100% gay & lesbian-intended and operated. Then came the abrupt letdown when, just three months later, the owners decided that unfortunately there was insufficient customer interest. Now, they've completely given up on their innovative claim to be filling a niche market and have instead renamed and repackaged their business.
This set us thinking. Could it be that it failed because it opened in a part of Turkey that has not yet established itself as having a claim on a good portion of the country's gay visitors? (Hello, wasn't there a project study in the first place?) How viable would it be, on the other hand, if such a unique idea was tried in Istanbul, the gateway to the country and the city on which the majority of gay travelers converge, drawn by the numerous venues and facilities available and duly noted in guidebooks, on the net and, of course, in our magazine? We decided to delve into the subject of the city's gay accommodation in particular and of gay travel in general, a quest which led us straight to the website of Pride Travel Agency, www.istanbulgay.com/hotels.htm. This lists various lodgings, from hotels to private apartments, all of them purportedly ‘gay-friendly’, a term which doesn’t really mean much more than that the people working in them are not morally judgmental. In other words, if you swish your way up to check in, or hold hands with your partner as you arrive in your leather chaps, they are not expected to raise their eyebrows and frown but should continue to greet you with a warmly-felt merhaba! hos geldiniz!
The comforting intro to their
webpage reads:
Why choose hotels recommended by us?
After interviewing the management of our member hotels, we were persuaded that they understand the expectations of gay people. We work with hotels only after we are sure that they are indeed gay friendly. Our first target is to help gay people find what they are looking for. Our motto is "Business comes next". Also, our member hotels provide special discounts or promotions to our gay clients such as free airport transfers.
This vetting process has resulted in a rather short list considering the myriad hotels in this tourism-oriented city of ours, and either reflects a vigorous and effective selection on the part of the agency, or the indifferent attitude of other hoteliers towards so-called ‘pink money’. None of the recommended establishments - most of which are not really that different from any other hotels of whatever shape, size or claim to luxury - is exclusively focused on the gay market. ‘Gay-friendly’ is as far as they go - with a big dose of liberal attitude to go with the moniker. Mind you, it's probably a sound business decision considering that this city is not awash with rainbow-bannered visitors at any time. I chose to check out two from the list, which caught my eye as offering unusual accommodation options.
When I went looking for Eklektik Guest House in the Galata neighborhood, a number of people I asked for directions were completely stumped and had never even heard of it. No wonder. Tucked away in a cul-de-sac, the hotel is an anonymous, medium-sized Ottoman house without a sign. Inadvertently or not, it proclaims its sexual preference with loud pink paint, which makes it stand out from the otherwise drab neighbourhood like a sore thumb. Obviously people in the area are not accustomed to monitor its comings and goings or they wouldn’t be so unaware of it - this is a definite plus for the traveler who values discretion.
From the outside it’s hard to imagine the comfort that awaits its guests but as soon as you step inside, the immediate feeling is of visiting a friend or relative’s abode which is furnished in shabby-chic, easy-to-feel-at-home-in style.
Here one can come and go as one pleases and - most importantly to gay visitors - one can bring a guest to the room without having to explain anything or pay extra for them - each room's rate is based on double occupancy, after all. However, as far as guests of guests go, Mr. Jeffrey C. Tucker, the proudly gay owner, maintains the right to bar anyone he deems to be an obvious security risk, which is perfectly fair when he’s running a luxury bed-and-breakfast set-up. Mr. Tucker, whose name, appearance and English accent belie his Turkish upbringing and nationality (his dad's English), is knowledgeable about Beyoğlu’s various gay venues and is happy to offer suggestions to anyone seeking advice for a memorable night out.
Eklektik advertises itself as ‘the first and only gay accommodation in Istanbul’. But don't get carried away by this grand proclamation - they are open to non-gay customers as well.
Eklektik Guest House
Sahkulu Mahallesi,
Serdarı Ekrem Caddesi, Kadribey Cıkmazı No 4, Beyoğlu
(0212) 243 7446
Fax: (0212) 243 7445
www.eklektikgalata.com
Regular rates: $90 to 110 per night depending on room size plus weekend supplement of $10 per night. Breakfast and taxes included.
For those who plan an İstanbul sojourn that combines the historical with the present-day and want to have quick access to the fabled, not-to-be-missed tourist sites as well as the much-vaunted ‹stanbul nightlife, setting up a base or temporary home in what is considered to be the ‘heart’ of the city is the only way to go. Beyoglu is the place to be it. Not only is it the emotional centre of İstanbul whence a network of transport to all the city's self-contained satellite neighborhoods and mahalles emanates, but it is also the entertainment belly of the town as well. İstanbullus flock here to see, be seen and enjoy this motley area of hotels, shops, restaurants, bars, clubs, museums, galleries. It's here in Taksim Square, with its Ataturk monument, that citizens from time to time pay homage to the founder of the modern Turkish Republic. Often enough, it's also here that they come to shout about what is wrong with the nation, their passionate demonstrations rising to the level of street theater. At such times the tourist does not need a ticket to witness the unfolding history of Turkey. For gay tourists any itinerary covering the bars and clubs of whatever fleeting inclination would have to kick off in Beyoğlu’s narrow streets and interconnected passageways. Here, too, you can stumble upon a couple of meat-racks offering good-looking Turkish rent boys, should you be so inclined.
Within shouting distance of Taksim is the expat enclave of Cihangir where, just a few tucks and turns from the landmark Marmara Hotel, stands Orange House. Despite its name, it is neither orange nor free-standing. When Mustafa Korkmaz pointed out his unassuming building, I was not really prepared for what I saw. My thoughts raced in immediate disbelief to: ‘This is it?’ But then I saw how efficiently and tastefully it had been set up as a furnished flat. A one-bedroom affair on a half-basement floor, it boasts a double bed in the bedroom and a living room that can comfortably accommodate a couple of extra guests. Although it’s part subterranean, it’s not dark and gloomy since it receives a fair amount of morning sunlight and has been decorated in cheerful colours. Additionally, the separate kitchen and toilet/bathroom have been made spacious.
A few words about Orange House’s proprietor Mustafa Korkmaz. He was Turkey's gay website pioneer, having established and maintained nine gay-oriented websites, including the pivotal www.istanbulgay.com and www.turkey-gay-travel.com . With ?, he was a founding partner of the aforementioned Pride Travel Agency. On the side he has also put up a site for straights, which, like his flat-leasing business, makes him an equal-opportunity entrepreneur.
Orange House
Purtelafl Sokak, Gülen Apartman No 40/2, Cihangir, Beyoğlu
(0539) 989 6792
Online reservation form from www.travelagencyturkey.com
$30 to 35 single per night. $35 to 40 double per night. Long term rental: $450-650 per month. All rates dependent on length of stay.