What’s better than taking a day trip to the Princes Islands in the summer? Staying over for two days or more.

Pippi Longstocking could not have wished for a better place: Only a 20 minute walk away from the Büyükada ferry station – follow Çınar Caddesi, Malulgazi Caddesi and Yılmaz Türk Caddesi – you’ll find yourself at the green entrance gates of Naya Retreats, a white three storey wooden house looking out to the sea. The front porch looks as if it’s only a matter of time before somebody sets up a swing there. And the front yard is, at least for the time being, covered with bags of second hand treasures: colourful chandeliers, candleholders, and mirrors. If you are out to seek the ordinary – go somewhere else. You won’t find it here. At Naya, everything is homemade, self-designed, constructed with care and creativity: from the colourfully broken tiled bathrooms, tents and wooden bungalows to the workshop platforms.
The villa sits in the midst of a wild garden of flowers, bushes and trees stretching up the hill – seemingly endlessly. According to Ludwig Lehner, arts festival organizer of Bavarian origin and a prominent figure in Istanbul’s expat community for many years, it is going to stay like that, with vegetable gardens, cactuses and roses. “We are so close to Istanbul and yet so far away from it,” says Ludwig. The ‘captain on the ship’, as he calls himself, enjoys the natural surroundings of his new work. “There are more and more cars coming to the island – but it is still an oasis.” The Naya crew consists of three people. Ludwig, Nilsu, the Turkish manager, who handles the bookings and coordinates the workshops, and a cook. “We have been here for two months now,” says Ludwig, looking back on a guest list of a few hundred. “Our guests are already happy,” says Ludwig, adding: “I am not quite yet.” Naya Retreats is a work in progress.

Vision: a real spa
The property with the wooden house was already purchased three years ago by Ludwig and some partners. But the real work only started this spring. One of the great challenges is making Naya a place to live in winters, too. “It is all still a bit simple,” says Ludwig. “But we are getting there.”
In early June Naya was hosting a yoga workshop with 120 participants. Yoga courses are held by the famous Turkish yoga teacher Mert Güler, who also teaches at Marmara University (more here: www.klasikyoga.com/mg.aspx). Other teachers at Naya are from the US (Pilates), Turkey (reflexology sessions), China, India – to name just a few. You can sign up for one of a wide range of courses: meditation, massages, energy healing, oneness deeksha, reiki 1-3, craniosacral balancing (a subtle, non-invasive, highly effective hands-on healing technique which stimulates the body’s inherent self-healing and self-correcting capacity). The knowledge and traditions are imported mainly from India, China and Bali. “We are, however, not a hospital or a sanatorium,” Ludwig is eager to point out. “We want to provide relaxation for healthy people. Our vision is to create a real spa here.”
What Ludwig & Co. have created already is a place where people come and relax or exchange views and experiences. It is an ideal setting for seminars, workshops, and meetings. “We provide an infrastructure,” says Ludwig. Last month this infrastructure was used by some academicians from Belgrade and universities in Ankara for a non-violence-workshop. “We all want to understand and love ourselves and others …  And we can only do that together …” – thus the motto behind Naya Retreats.

An oasis
Workshop or not: The open terraces in the backyard always invite you to stop by for a chat, a coffee or fresh juice during your bike ride around the island – or a walk along the seaside path (about four hours) – which leads through forests, lonely places and pays off with beautiful views across the sea. The small open kitchen at Naya conjures up fantastic food: breakfast buffets, lunch and dinner, also for bigger groups in a casual atmosphere. The food is vegetarian and experimental – a healthy mix of Turkish, Italian, German and Asian cuisine.
You might find it exaggerated when Ludwig claims that his place allowes everyone to forget time and live the moment. Once you have seen and experienced it, however, it is hard to disagree. While the rest of the island is slowly getting Mado-nized and coffee-chained, Naya is a hip, slightly hippie-esque, oasis for the alternatively minded.
Stay overnight in one of the neat wooden bungalows (80 YTL for two people with breakfast) with telling names like Kaktus House, Tree House or Tibet House. A two-bed tent costs 40 YTL, including amazing breakfast. (Toilet facilities will soon be provided in the bungalows. Until then you've got to share the ones in and next to the main house.)
Yoga courses during the summer months are every Wednesday and on the weekends. Body language workshops are given every third weekend of the month.
Find more information under: www.nayaretreats.com.

Also on Büyükada
Take a bike or a phaeton to Luna Park, collect your energy, make a wish and walk up the 202 metre Hill of Yüce to Aya Yorgi Kilisesi (Saint George Church). You think that’s hard? Then try with your mouth shut – as your wish will only come true if you walk up the hill without talking . Once you are up on the plateau, enjoy a glass of homemade wine while taking in the scenery (sunsets are amazing!).
And if you then happen to miss the last ferry, here is Ludwig’s mobile number: 0537 206 0415. At least until the news spreads to the world of alternative travellers, Naya Retreats will almost always find you a place to sleep.

More islands …

Heybeliada
A popular summer retreat for Istanbul’s upper class since many decades – if Orhan Pamuk were not in the US, you might be bumping into him during his morning walks to the bakkal (the little “we-have-everything” stores). The main and most popular attraction of the island is the 11th century Greek Orthodox monastery, which housed the Halki seminary. Don’t miss the only remaining Byzantine church on the island (Kamariotissa) and the grave of Edward Barton, the second English Ambassador who was sent to Constantinople by Elizabeth I. of England. In order to escape the already loud and exhausting city, Barton had chosen to live on the island and was buried here.
The beautiful white building that greets you when approaching the ferry port is the main building of the naval academy (Naval Cadet School) with its vast courtyard.
Try the world’s best calamari at Mavi Restaurant – a family business managed by two sisters.

Burgaz Ada
The third biggest, round shaped island is about 2 kilometres wide.
In 2003, a forest fire erupted in the highest point of the island and spread over large portions of the pine tree covered hills of the island. Half of the forested area burned down in only a few hours. It has meanwhile grown green again. Walk northwards through streets with lovely wooden houses to the Haghia Giorgios Monastery. On your way you will pass a mosque dated from 1935. Best spot for dinner: the Greek restaurant “Babar”, situated in a red house left from the ferry. Indulge in their excellent seafood, salads and meze.

Kınalı Ada
Kınalı means reddish – and reddish is the colour of the soil of the island, which is closest to Istanbul, i.e. the first stop when coming from Eminönü or Kabataş. Major parts of the population are of Armenian origin. The first mosque was only established in 1953. Kınalı Adası stands out with a slightly rougher atmosphere. Less shiny and magnificent, more working class. The streets smell of fresh tar and are filled with Anatolian village slang. Just a few metres off the ferry port, the seaside is covered with sunbathers and teenagers running around – their energy level boosted by the fresh plums and apricots they consume fresh from the trees.
Walk up the short path to the Armenian Sourp Krikor Lousavoritch Church and towards evening choose one of the third row restaurants to enjoy fantastic food and the company of island locals.
The fifth biggest island is Sedef Adası (you need to organize a boat if you are curious). The rest of the islands are privately owned. About 22 metres north of Burgaz Adası lays Kaşık Adası (spoon island). Yassiada used to be an exile and prison place until very recently.
During the summer months up to 120.000 people live on the islands – in the winter the number decreases to about 20.000. Ferries for the islands leave from Eminönü, Kabataş and Bostancı. Cars are not permitted on the island (except for service vehicles such as ambulance, fire, police and the like). Instead, phaetons, donkeys, motorcycles, bikes and travelling by foot are the most popular forms of transportation. Check out the summer time tables for IDO ferries (in English) under www.ido.com.tr/en/index.cfm.