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Culture

Living Samatya


Writer: Umut Eroğlu

A quaint town by the seaside

Where: Samatya
Why: Samatya is one of the oldest towns in Istanbul, even older than Istanbul as an Ottoman territory. If you feel like having an evening with a taste of traditional Istanbul entertainment flavoured with grilled fish and sea scent, Samatya is the place to visit. As a conscious traveller, you’re possibly interested in more than dining, so take a walk in the upper streets of the district. An elderly resident can you share stories about how people used to live before everything got modernised. Before the Muslim emperor conquered the city, this district was populated by the Byzantines. Therefore, Samatya is where you can encounter the highest number of churches located in a single area. If you’re visiting Istanbul, you’ll want to check out mosques with attractive architecture, so better keep in mind that many of the most beautiful historical mosques are located in this district too.
Eat: Seafood. And sure, rakı. At the main square, surrounded by restaurants, just follow your nose and do not hesitate to grab a chair on a street and order your favourite seafood; don’t miss the chance to try the fresh mussels and calamari. Samatya is one of your best options to experience original Turkish Rakı & Delicatessen culture. Street side restaurants offer mostly budget menus. Located opposite to the centre square, Kuleli Meyhane and Küçük Ev restaurants will allow you to dine at a ‘recession-friendly’ price. In Kuleli, you may ask for street musicians to accompany your evening fun. However, you may want to stay cool on a rooftop, watch a stunning view of Marmara the way it can be seen like nowhere else in Istanbul. The bill may not be as reasonable as the ones on the street but I guarantee you’ll feel delighted as you leave the place satisfied. If this sounds like your thing, try the famous Develi Restaurant (0212 529 08 33) or Sedir Restaurant (0212 530 05 90).
Shop: Samatya is a big dining square so if you’re in the mood for shopping, you’ll probably end up spending your cash on food in markets. You may prefer to spend your time in the cosy atmosphere just to grab some drinks and take away fresh seafood for your own BBQ party. The fishers around the square always promise the freshest fish. Also you may take a walk on the seashore toward Kumkapı and bargain for the best fish in the city at the fish bazaar.
Only in Samatya: The most famous restaurant around the square is ‘Ali Haydar’ın Yeri’. The strong reputation of the fancy restaurant is derived from the famous TV series ‘İkinci Bahar’. Türkan Şoray and Şener Şen, two of the most important characters in Turkish film history, starred in the series as managers of this restaurant, around which the entire story was focused.  In order to keep the spirit going, recent managers have preserved the restaurant as it was seen on the series, even employing a master cook identical to the one (Şener Şen) in the series.

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