Yes, you can get many fine Turkish souvenirs and gifts at the Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar but you may have noticed that the locals don’t seem to be buying from the wily salesmen there. So where can you really get a deal in Istanbul?


Hookahs:  One of the first things that you’ll notice in the Bazaar is that despite the claims of touts and salespeople, the stalls are generally supplied by the same sources.  A basic principle of bargain hunting is to cut out the middle man.  In Eminonu, THE hookah supplier is Ali Haydar, owner of a factory in Eminonu that literally cranks out hookahs by the thousands.  Haydar Nargile, across from the Stork building in Eminonu, sells hookahs, all necessary accoutrements, tobacco and quick-lighting charcoal at ridiculously low prices.  Standard two foot metal and glass or porcelain pieces that would easily run a tourist 100 TL or more in the Grand Bazaar can be had for 20-50 from Haydar Nargile.  I caught up with Haydar one day in his shop and over apple tobacco he revealed that his factory supplies most of the shops in the historic district and ships all over Europe.  Haydar claims that his factory can meet an order of 100,000 units in under a week.  Haydar’s hookahs come in all shapes, sizes, colors and materials.  While machine-made, they are quite serviceable for use or decoration. 19 Sobaciler Caddesi, Eminonu.  www.haydarnargile.com

Tea Glasses:  The going rate for tea glasses in the bazaars is not as steep as the tariff on hookahs but there are much easier and cheaper ways to buy a set.  If you want standard fare—the kind they have on the Bosphorus ferries—then go to your local Migros supermarket and pick up a box load for under ten lira.  If you’re interested in something more decorative then the best place to go is Paşabahçe.  Founded in 1934 Paşabahçe is one of Turkey’s industrial success stories.  As the largest glass supplier in the country Paşabahçe sells everything from the most functional flatware to beautiful and ornate pieces for decoration or special occasions.  The original factory is located up the Bosphorus but there are outlets conveniently located throughout the city.  150 Istiklal Caddesi, Beyoglu and 131 Halascargazi Caddesi, Osmanbey.  www.pasabahce.com.tr

Coffee Cups:  Turkey is famous for porcelain and the best porcelain comes from a small town in Anatolia called Kutahya.  Kutahya Porcelain supplies most of the functional and decorative porcelain in Turkey.  If you’re drinking Turkish coffee in a fancy restaurant in Istanbul, chances are it’s from a Kutahya cup.  There is one Kutahya outlet in Istanbul, located in Osmanbey.  A six pack of classic, floral motif coffee cups currently costs 25 TL at Kutahya.  Not only are they cheap but they’re also sturdy!  Last summer I brought 106 cups home as party favors for my wedding and not a single one broke.
Kutahya Porselen, 126 Halascargazi Caddesi, Osmanbey. www.kutahyaporselen.com.tr

The Cheapest Gifts Ever:  There are many, many cheap trinkets to be had in Istanbul.  In the streets around the Spice Bazaar they sell evil-eye medallions for one lira.  A packet of Mehmet Effendi Turkish coffee will cost no more than two lira from any supermarket in the city.  I’d have to say one strong candidate for the cheapest gifts, however, would have to be Myth Arts, 180 Istiklal (just before Tunel).  This particular shop sells porcelain coasters for two lira, trivets for three and bowls for eight to ten.  If you need to grab gifts for a whole bunch of people and have neither money nor time a fistful of “authentic Turkish coasters” will cost you less than twenty lira and stow neatly in any carryon bag.  The surly counter boys will even bubble wrap.