Sightseeing
It's a cliché, okay, but where else can you hop across continents without straying from the city limits? Welcome to Istanbul, folks, and welcome to Asia!
For a few millennia now, Kadıköy has been getting a bad rap as a rural backwater against the greatness of European Constantinople, but Asia has a lot to offer for the budget-conscious vacationer looking for a getaway closer to home.
History
Kadıköy was once ancient Chalcedon, the infamous "City of the Blind." Colonists from the Greek city-state of Megara founded Chalcedon in 685 BC. They were dubbed "blind" because they were too dim to notice the obviously superior harbor on the Golden Horn just across the water. (A trivia tidbit--the Megarans discovered a spring in Kadıköy brimming with crocodiles! A statue in the center of the town market marks the spot.) Kadıköy plays a central role in Christian history as the site of the Council of Chalcedon, where, in a church on Haydarpaöa Hill in 451, 500 bishops decided that Christ was both human and divine. Kadıköy fell to the Ottomans in 1353 a full century before Istanbul proper. The nineteenth century saw a huge influx of Greeks, Armenians, and Europeans of every creed; the crumbling ruins of their mansions dot the streets. Though there are still a few minorities lingering about (as evidenced by the plethora of churches and synagogues), most have fled, the last emigration of Turkish Greeks leaving the city with the hullabaloo over Northern Cyprus in the 60s.
Activities
Kadıköy boasts some of the most romantic views in the city. You can puff on nargile at the Moda Tea Garden on a hill overlooking the Princes Islands, or stroll along the Marmara Sea starting from Kadıköy Wharf all the way to Pendik, several kilometers away. The best place to go, however, is Çamlıca.
Çamlıca is a forested refuge from the squall of urban noise. It is actually two different hills, Küçük Çamlıca (Little Pine Hill) and Büyük Çamlıca (Big Pine Hill). Küçük Çamlıca faces more westerly and is far more peaceful than its larger cousin. You hike to the top through rose and tulip gardens, and once at the peak, you’re rewarded with a stunning view of the Marmara Sea and the distant mountains of Anatolia. Trails wind around the hill through pine forests scattered with picnic tables. You can take a break at a teahouse that sits among the trees next to a small pond. Büyük Çamlıca is more developed, and offers a view north over the city and the Bosporus Bridge that is absolutely breathtaking at night. On a summer's evening, the road to the Ottoman restaurant at the top is crowded with picnickers and buskers selling glow sticks, ice cream and “Osmanlı Macunu”--a rainbow colored sticky candy from the days of Empire. No bus goes directly to the top, but you can take the 14F or 14K from central Kadıköy and get off at the Çamlıca stop. It’s just a short 5-minute walk to the base of the two hills.
Another favorite hotspot is the picturesque Güneşli Bahçe Street, site of the famous fish market and a noisy jumble of outdoor cafes, pubs, and seafood restaurants. The street is lined with a few old Ottoman houses and overhung with vines. At night, fasıl and Roma musicians wander from table to table and live bands fill the cafes. You can spend all night hopping from rowdy pub to rowdy pub.
Shopping
Kadıköy offers a variety of shopping options for people of all tastes. For sheer glitz, Bagdat Caddesi has to be one of the most famous shopping areas in Istanbul. Local boutiques vie with international chains like Abercrombie and Fitch along a leafy American-sized avenue. You can take a break from your high-end spending spree with a coffee at one of the pretty cafes or patisseries. If you're a car buff, this is the place to come. The wealthy love to cruise the avenue showing off their newest Porsches, Ferraris, and Corvettes.
On the opposite end of the spectrum is the Salı Pazar, the Tuesday Market, which also runs on Fridays. It's one of Istanbul's largest open markets and a chaotic beehive of local color. Thousands of vendors gather twice a week to hock everything from pumpkins to purses to fake Nike shoes. A great place for bargains.
Kadıköy is also a treasure trove of used books in all languages. Over 20 different stores crowd the fabled Akmar Pasajı, and tons more can be found on almost every side street. In addition to books, you can find a lot of old photos, prints, and maps at much cheaper prices than at any shop on Istiklal.
Restaurants
Denizatı Cafe (the Seahorse). Tel: 0216 414 76 43 Housed in the upper floor of the elegant old Ottoman Beşiktaş Iskele, the terrace has unbeatable views of the Marmara, including sunsets over Sultanahmet and the Prince's Islands. The menu offers a variety of pastas, Turkish and Western fare, along with imported beers and liquors. Sandwiches start at 8TL and entree prices top out at 60TL, but most are around 20TL. There is live music every night from Thursday- Sunday's are Tango Nights. For atmosphere, it can't be beat.
Tel: 0216 414 76 43
Sini Mantı- The super-friendly owner hails from Bingol and is the reigning Queen of mantı. Nothing is premade. The pasta and sauce are whipped up on order and, believe me, you can taste the difference. One plate is 10 TL, and could feed two people, especially paired with her divine çig börek. Arayicibasi Sokak. No: 10/1 Tel: 216-347-7111
Hotels
The Deniz Otel- An elegant hotel facing the Marmara in downtown Kadıköy. Prices start at 95 TL. Address: General Şahap Gürler Cad. No:2 81320 Kadıköy-İstanbul Tel: (0216) 348 7455
The Harem Hotel, a classy hotel with gorgeous sea views, is located just five minutes away in Harem. Singles start at 75 Euro and you can get a luxury suite for 200.
Address: Ambar Sokak, 2 Selimiye Tel: (0216) 334 7730
Staycations- Kadıköy
Writer: Jeff Gibbs
It's a cliché, okay, but where else can you hop across continents without straying from the city limits? Welcome to Istanbul, folks, and welcome to Asia!
For a few millennia now, Kadıköy has been getting a bad rap as a rural backwater against the greatness of European Constantinople, but Asia has a lot to offer for the budget-conscious vacationer looking for a getaway closer to home.
History
Kadıköy was once ancient Chalcedon, the infamous "City of the Blind." Colonists from the Greek city-state of Megara founded Chalcedon in 685 BC. They were dubbed "blind" because they were too dim to notice the obviously superior harbor on the Golden Horn just across the water. (A trivia tidbit--the Megarans discovered a spring in Kadıköy brimming with crocodiles! A statue in the center of the town market marks the spot.) Kadıköy plays a central role in Christian history as the site of the Council of Chalcedon, where, in a church on Haydarpaöa Hill in 451, 500 bishops decided that Christ was both human and divine. Kadıköy fell to the Ottomans in 1353 a full century before Istanbul proper. The nineteenth century saw a huge influx of Greeks, Armenians, and Europeans of every creed; the crumbling ruins of their mansions dot the streets. Though there are still a few minorities lingering about (as evidenced by the plethora of churches and synagogues), most have fled, the last emigration of Turkish Greeks leaving the city with the hullabaloo over Northern Cyprus in the 60s.
Activities
Kadıköy boasts some of the most romantic views in the city. You can puff on nargile at the Moda Tea Garden on a hill overlooking the Princes Islands, or stroll along the Marmara Sea starting from Kadıköy Wharf all the way to Pendik, several kilometers away. The best place to go, however, is Çamlıca.
Çamlıca is a forested refuge from the squall of urban noise. It is actually two different hills, Küçük Çamlıca (Little Pine Hill) and Büyük Çamlıca (Big Pine Hill). Küçük Çamlıca faces more westerly and is far more peaceful than its larger cousin. You hike to the top through rose and tulip gardens, and once at the peak, you’re rewarded with a stunning view of the Marmara Sea and the distant mountains of Anatolia. Trails wind around the hill through pine forests scattered with picnic tables. You can take a break at a teahouse that sits among the trees next to a small pond. Büyük Çamlıca is more developed, and offers a view north over the city and the Bosporus Bridge that is absolutely breathtaking at night. On a summer's evening, the road to the Ottoman restaurant at the top is crowded with picnickers and buskers selling glow sticks, ice cream and “Osmanlı Macunu”--a rainbow colored sticky candy from the days of Empire. No bus goes directly to the top, but you can take the 14F or 14K from central Kadıköy and get off at the Çamlıca stop. It’s just a short 5-minute walk to the base of the two hills.
Another favorite hotspot is the picturesque Güneşli Bahçe Street, site of the famous fish market and a noisy jumble of outdoor cafes, pubs, and seafood restaurants. The street is lined with a few old Ottoman houses and overhung with vines. At night, fasıl and Roma musicians wander from table to table and live bands fill the cafes. You can spend all night hopping from rowdy pub to rowdy pub.
Shopping
Kadıköy offers a variety of shopping options for people of all tastes. For sheer glitz, Bagdat Caddesi has to be one of the most famous shopping areas in Istanbul. Local boutiques vie with international chains like Abercrombie and Fitch along a leafy American-sized avenue. You can take a break from your high-end spending spree with a coffee at one of the pretty cafes or patisseries. If you're a car buff, this is the place to come. The wealthy love to cruise the avenue showing off their newest Porsches, Ferraris, and Corvettes.
On the opposite end of the spectrum is the Salı Pazar, the Tuesday Market, which also runs on Fridays. It's one of Istanbul's largest open markets and a chaotic beehive of local color. Thousands of vendors gather twice a week to hock everything from pumpkins to purses to fake Nike shoes. A great place for bargains.
Kadıköy is also a treasure trove of used books in all languages. Over 20 different stores crowd the fabled Akmar Pasajı, and tons more can be found on almost every side street. In addition to books, you can find a lot of old photos, prints, and maps at much cheaper prices than at any shop on Istiklal.
Restaurants
Denizatı Cafe (the Seahorse). Tel: 0216 414 76 43 Housed in the upper floor of the elegant old Ottoman Beşiktaş Iskele, the terrace has unbeatable views of the Marmara, including sunsets over Sultanahmet and the Prince's Islands. The menu offers a variety of pastas, Turkish and Western fare, along with imported beers and liquors. Sandwiches start at 8TL and entree prices top out at 60TL, but most are around 20TL. There is live music every night from Thursday- Sunday's are Tango Nights. For atmosphere, it can't be beat.
Tel: 0216 414 76 43
Sini Mantı- The super-friendly owner hails from Bingol and is the reigning Queen of mantı. Nothing is premade. The pasta and sauce are whipped up on order and, believe me, you can taste the difference. One plate is 10 TL, and could feed two people, especially paired with her divine çig börek. Arayicibasi Sokak. No: 10/1 Tel: 216-347-7111
Hotels
The Deniz Otel- An elegant hotel facing the Marmara in downtown Kadıköy. Prices start at 95 TL. Address: General Şahap Gürler Cad. No:2 81320 Kadıköy-İstanbul Tel: (0216) 348 7455
The Harem Hotel, a classy hotel with gorgeous sea views, is located just five minutes away in Harem. Singles start at 75 Euro and you can get a luxury suite for 200.
Address: Ambar Sokak, 2 Selimiye Tel: (0216) 334 7730